Planet Eclipse - Ego 06 - Black/Blue

Description

Planet Eclipse - Ego 06 - Black/Blue
This is a Planet Eclipse Ego 06 with a black body, and blue accents. I have reconditioned this marker myself, and brought it back to life (see Condition section for details about repairs). I've put together a nice little package which includes many things which usually come standard with a Planet Eclipse marker. It comes in a case which is actually from a newer marker, with some slight modifications to fit the Ego. (The original Ego case is impossible to find alone since it was actually the box in which it was sold. Modifying a newer marker case was the best compromise I could come up with, but it works quite well.) The barrel is a matching blue Shaft One, and comes with a Ronin Gear barrel bag for storage since it doesn't fit in the case. The bolt is an original Ego bolt but has had the rear ribbed part cut off for an unknown reason. Other parts included are as follows:
* Planet Eclipse Grease (New)
* Planet Eclipse Oil (New)
* Planet Eclipse Allen Key Set (New)
* Planet Eclipse Barrel Cover - Ice (New)
* Planet Eclipse Grips (New)
* Energizer 9V Ultimate Lithium Battery (New)
* Custom parts kit that I put together which provides spares for all of the o-rings plus some others which are not included in the standard spare parts kit:
O-rings:
004 NBR 70 x 4
006 NBR 70 x 4
008 NBR 70 x 4
009 NBR 70 x 2
010 NBR 70 x 4
011 NBR 70 x 4
012 NBR 70 x 2
013 NBR 70 x 2
014 NBR 70 x 2
015 NBR 70 x 8
016 NBR 70 x 8
3.5mm OD x 1.5mm ID x 1mm Thickness Flourine Rubber 70 Durameter x 6 (for Solenoid Manifold)
23mm OD x 21mm ID x 1mm Thickness Buna 70 Durameter x 4 (for Barrel)
Other parts:
Detent x 12
Grip/Sensor Cover Screw x4
1/8" OD x 1/16" ID Polyurethane Tubing x 1 ft
The following operating notes will be included printed out on paper:
Grip Screws (WARNING):
Tightening the grip screws too much WILL damage the solenoid. Specifically the rear most grip screw on the body which has the solenoid coil directly behind the screw hole. These screws only need to be tightened ever so slightly. Tighten these with a standard allen key holding only the shaft until stopping then turn slightly more no more than an 1/8 of a rotation. This is all that is necessary to secure the grips in place. It is much better to have these screws accidentally back out and get lost rather than drill a hole through the solenoid coil which is a more costly replacement. If you see the conical inset in the screw hole for the grip splitting that means it's too tight. If losing the screws is a dire concern, use purple thread locker (Loctite 222MS) and let sit for 24 hours to cure.
Rear rammer housing cap:
This cap is aluminum, and should not be over-tightened. It has an o-ring on the inside, and for this reason this cap does not need to be tightened to any significant degree. Finger tight is all that is needed to keep it in place. If vibrations cause it to loosen, this will be visible and audible (air leaking from the rammer chamber), it can be tightened in the field with just a thumb. Over-tightening this and striping the cap may require extreme measures such as an extractor to remove the cap, and since the cap is aluminum may not even be successful.
ASA Maintenance:
The knob threads have a thick silicone-based grease (Super Lube Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon (PTFE)). The core utilizes Dow 111 grease. This is intentional, to prevent these parts from accidentally falling out on their own. It's very easy for the knob to accidentally back itself out since there is nothing but friction to keep it in the ASA. The grease on the threads prevent it from moving without some extra effort, the PTFE (aka Teflon) is good to reduce wear on the threads while operating the ASA gassed up. The core (silver fixture inside the ASA) is also only held in the ASA by friction of the o-rings with the ASA body. The 111 grease will help hold it in place while no tank is in the ASA. If the ASA is taken apart for maintenance, it would be a good idea to utilize similar greases to mitigate potentially losing these parts accidentally.
Barrel o-ring:
This is a 23mm OD x 21mm ID x 1mm Thickness Buna 70 Durameter o-ring which I've found to be a better fit for mating with the body of the marker. This allows for a perfect snug fit to the body without needing to risk over-tightening the barrel. The standard o-ring for this job I found to be too large (fat), requiring excessive force to keep the barrel secure. Doing this could damage the threads, and using the smaller o-ring creates a snugger fit while also allowing the barrel to seat all the way into the marker body. Extra o-rings of this size are included.
Condition
This marker is used and has been reconditioned by me and is fully functional. I play tested this marker in the field to verify functionality, check for leaks, and to confirm it doesn't chop or misfire (eyes fully functional/working as expected). The board is set to 8 BPS, and the in-line regulator has been set to about 280 FPS which should be compatible for most fields. There are some nicks/scratches visible on the body and barrel as shown in the pictures. It has been disassembled and re-assembled several times while I've owned it, so some screws and other things will show wear from these activities. Great care has been taken to keep it in the condition of when I purchased it used. The air fittings have been cleaned, re-fitted and seals renewed (using Loctite 545 Thread Sealer), the macroline is new, and the solenoid tubing is new. I added the missing trigger spring which can be removed as a preference. The regulator which I received with it has been replaced with a matching color stock regulator and fully re-built, and tested that it operates within the operating range of the marker. The grips are brand-new (installed after play testing the marker). The rammer bumper has been replaced with two o-rings since it has a tendency to disintegrate and get pulverized by the rammer action. These o-rings can be more readily replaced rather than buying a spare parts kit just for that bumper.
Origin
I purchased this used on Ebay a few years back to see how I liked the marker. I've worked on it over the last couple of years and bringing the marker back to stock replacing the various parts that came with it with original Planet Eclipse parts.
Reason for Sale
Though this marker has the most satisfying trigger action of all of the markers I've used, it's just not a good fit for me. After working on this for a couple of years and finally getting a nice package put together for it, it's time for it to go to a new home.
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